A log of random thoughts, inter-web discoveries, everyday events and acts of self indulgent nonsense.
Fri
Nov
20
Another cold morning with a hefty dose of fog. Looked like it was gonna break when the sun came up but it didn’t. Surf size was good but it was just walled up. Paddle for something then pull out. My kook colors were showing this morning. Finally got a quick right and the end of the sesh which made it worthwhile. Sometimes it only takes one.
Wed
Nov
18
Dawn patrol this morning. It was hell trying to get out of bed before 5. The air temp was damn cold. My knee and back still sore from hoops. Finally dragged myself into the water and… had a fun ass sesh. Had me stoked the whole day.
Sat
Nov
14
Fall day combo… surfed MB this mornin then K-Town for hot soup.
Sun
Nov
8
This pretty much sums up the morning out at Bolsa. Big, overhead+ walled up sections. If you caught a shoulder and were on a shortboard you could get a quick ride. Myself, I realized my limits and didn’t chance paddling out… and I’m ok with that.
Mon
Nov
2
Dawn patrol… Too bad the waves decided to not show up. What little did, broke right onto shore and landed you into 2 inches of water.
Sat
Oct
31
Last of the daylight savings sunrises.
Sun
Oct
25
Sunrise over Bolsa Chica, Sunday morning.
Fri
Oct
23
San-O this morn. Waist to shoulder high slow rollers. Tiring but fun.
Sun
Oct
18
Mayer Hawthorne @ Fox Hills mall.
Wed
Oct
14
Ice cold one after a long day… FTR, bring the sunshine back #fb
Sun
Sep
13
Happiest place on earth… Oogaboogaland
Mon
Aug
31
Evidence that the end is near
my newly acquired previously owned newness. does that even make sense?
